With school closed for half-term, a few days of rain under our belt, and two boys aged 10 and 7 firmly ensconced on the sofa with Xbox controls welded to their hands, it was time to head out! Our destination did not fill them with excitement, but they were perfectly happy when I explained there would be a café and a maze. Personally, I was itching to get back to Hampton Court Palace, having visited many years previously, yet still reminded of the captivating atmosphere it held.
We arrived by train via Clapham Junction and made our way over the River Thames to the Palace beyond. Our first stop was the famous maze, free to Palace ticket holders. There was a suggestion to separate and meet in the middle, but as it was rather busy we opted instead to work as a team. A wise decision in hindsight as we, and many of our fellow maze-goers, were still searching for the middle a good twenty minutes later! Finally we made our way out of the maze (almost as difficult as finding the middle), and decided it was time for some refreshments. The Tiltyard café is a short walk from the maze and is built on the site of Henry’s jousting arena. Several sandwiches later we were ready to explore the Palace.
We had been told on our entry to the Palace about some re-enactments that were taking place that day, and decided we would go and watch one. I had to manage the expectations of my youngest son who kept asking what time the ‘show’ started (his imaginings were of full scale musical numbers, fireworks etc!). However, I needn’t have worried. We met at the allotted time in the courtyard with other interested visitors and were immediately drawn in to the scenario by ‘Lady Exeter’, Anne Boleyn’s lady-in-waiting, in full Tudor costume. This scenario was Anne’s frustration at not being made Henry’s Queen after seven years of courtship. We then heard how Henry considered turning his back on Rome to allow him to annul his marriage to Catherine of Aragon. We, the crowd, became members of the Royal Court, and took part in the role play to follow. We followed Lady Exeter through to Henry VIII’s apartments where we met Anne Boleyn. Henry himself entered, dressed just as he appears in so many portraits, and with a genuine presence about him that allows you to suspend belief and step back in time. An argument ensued, resulting in the disappearance of Anne, who we then had to ‘find’. The children were hooked, as was I.
These re-enactments are a regular feature and happen at different times during the day. They really do bring the history to life, and make for a much more exciting way to find out the secrets of the Palace than reading the information boards. Having said this, most of the displays are interactive, with touch screens, video clips and other clever uses of technology to keep everyone engaged and interested.
We wandered through other parts of the Palace on our way to the gardens. In a rare reversal of roles, I was left dawdling at the back, being hurried along by my two boys. Mainly because every corridor you walk through reveals something amazing…a beautiful fresco on the ceiling, grand staircase, or famous portrait. Arguably the most impressive part of the Palace for me is the Chapel Royal, with its stunning ceiling decoration. This also holds great historical significance as the place where Jane Seymour (Henry’s third wife) lay in state for three weeks after her death, having previously been the place of her and Henry’s beloved son’s Baptism.
The gardens are impressive in their size and variety. They offer an abundance of space and tranquillity, running alongside the River Thames. Visitors of all ages will enjoy the sight of the sparkling fountains, and the 18th century Privy Garden invites you to wander slowly down the paths admiring the floral displays. There is also the chance to see the oldest and largest grapevine in the world. If you are 7 or 10 then the main attraction here is the sheer space, and opportunity to run, hide and explore!
It was time to head back to the station. We had seen so much, and yet so little of what Hampton Court has to offer. It is one of those places that you could return to time and again and always discover something new and fascinating. Needless to say I am thinking about that return visit already and have no intention of leaving it ten years this time!
www.hrp.org.uk/hamptoncourtpalace