Cambridge, UK

Plymouth, UK

Cornwall, UK

When I last visited Prague in the 1980’s, I was a carefree 20-something. I took trams everywhere, wandered the cobblestoned streets, and spent nights in cafés sampling the local beers and Becherovka, (an emerald-hued herbal bitters that is often used as a digestive aid – did I mention I was in my 20’s?), so when I had the opportunity to return – now as a middle- aged mother, with a husband and two children in tow - I jumped at the chance. I am happy to say that the charm of Prague has not lessened in the years since I was last here. The tourist mix has changed, but the maze-like streets, the baroque building facades, the glittering shop windows full of garnet and amber jewellery, retain their original allure.

The flight from Heathrow was 2 hours, and we took a taxi to the Intercontinental Hotel, which is located just a short walk from the Old Town Square. In fact, we walked the entire trip, except for the taxis to and from the airport. Walking is definitely the best way to experience the city’s highlights, if you have the stamina.

That first afternoon we got settled in our room (and were amused at the printed “pillow menu” for those who have strong feelings about pillow density!), then went for a walk down the elegant, tree-lined Parizska avenue past boutiques such as Hermes, Bulgari, and Celine. The Avenue leads directly to the Old Town Square, where we went to see the famed Astronomical Clock on Old Town Hall. The third oldest astrological clock in the world, and the oldest one still in use (it was installed in 1402), it attracts crowds who gather to watch the hourly show of figures of the Apostles and other moving sculptures. My children were especially fascinated by the figure of Death – a skeleton whose arm moves up and down to ring a bell. Memento Mori? Carpe Diem? We put the philosophising aside to buy sausages at one of the food stands lining the square and sat on a bench munching happily, watching as a pair of Russian tourists fed bedraggled pigeons pieces of their trdelnik (a traditional doughnut-like Czech pastry).

That night, we ate at Pepe Nero across the street from our hotel, where you can choose between delicious pizzas, pastas and seafood. I tried the squid ink risotto with grilled calamari. The location, casual ambiance and friendly service made us return a couple of nights later.

The following day, we walked from the hotel to the Charles Bridge spanning the Vitava river. Dotted with 30 baroque-style statues, the Bridge attracts the usual assortment of musicians, artists, and craftspeople, as well as, throngs of tourists taking selfies. It was a relief to leave the bustle behind as we headed up to the Church of St. Nicholas, in the centre of Lesser Town (Mala Strana) Square. It is the most famous Baroque church in Prague and doesn’t disappoint, with its soaring, frescoed ceilings, and dramatic statuary sculpted by František Ignác Platzer. From the Church, we continued our steep walk uphill towards the Strahov Monastery, a Premonstratensian abbey founded in 1143. The libraries are beautiful, but you have to enjoy them from afar as they are roped off and only viewable from a small entranceway (you have to pre-book and pay extra to actually enter them). You also must pay 50 crowns extra to take photos – why not buy a postcard instead in the library shop? My children actually preferred the cabinets of curiosities (featuring Hussite weapons, exotic shells and insects) to the libraries. We didn’t feel the 360 koruna entrance fee ($15 for the four of us) justified a visit which took us only 15-20 minutes total.

What does make the trek up the hill worth it, however, (those who prefer not to walk can take a tram up the hill), is lunch at the Strahov Monastic Brewery, located directly across from the library. The outdoor benches were packed, even though the weather was crisp. We opted to sit indoors, in a cosy room dominated by two massive copper brewing barrels. We had a lunch of goulash and dumplings for my husband and me, schnitzel and fries for the children. The delicious amber beer is brewed on site. Lunch for four cost 883 koruna ($40 dollars).

We then wandered down the hill on Nerudova Street, where many of the houses have painted symbols from the era before there were numbered addresses. Stand-out shops include Antikvariát u Zlaté číše, an excellent used book store that also sells old stamps, postcards, maps and knick knacks. The Designum Café offers coffee and tempting pastries (and the design store a few steps away sells chic jewellery, ceramics and homewares). After all that walking, we were ravenous when we went to dinner at Les Moules, near our hotel, which specialises in mussels and seafood. The kids had Belgian meatballs and fries. While everyone else was happy, I wasn’t impressed with the mussels, and found it the most disappointing of the meals we had.

Day 3 was devoted to exploring the Jewish Quarter. We bought a family ticket (1300 koruna including 21⁄2 hour guided tour, approximately $60) at the Jewish Museum (this isn’t an actual museum but where you buy the tickets for tours) and were granted entrance to the Maiselova Klausen, Pinkas, and Spanish synagogues. The price alone was worth it for access to the old Jewish cemetery. One of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe, it holds approximately 100,000 graves, buried in multiple layers due to the limited space. Influential figures buried here include Rabbi David Oppenheim, whose book collection is now housed in the Bodleian Library in Oxford, and Rabbi Judah Low ben Betzalel (also called Maharal), writer of religious and philosophical treatises. Pinkas synagogue, the second oldest synagoguge in Prague, commemorates more than 78,000 Bohemian and Moravian Jews who were killed during the Holocaust. On the first floor, there is a heartbreaking exhibit of drawings children made in the Theresienstadt concentration camp. Depicting their homes and schools, as well as flowers, playgrounds and pictures of their mothers and fathers that many of them likely never saw again, the art work is an unbearably poignant reminder of the tragic loss of these innocent lives. Included in the exhibit are the children’s thank you notes to their beloved art teacher, Friedl Dicker-Brandeis. One of her few surviving students, Eva Dorian, said of Dicker- Brandeise, “I believe that what she wanted from us was not directly linked to drawing...but to the expression of our feelings....the liberation from our fears...these were not normal lessons, but lessons in emancipated meditation”. Dicker- Brandeis, like most of the children, died in Auschwitz, but she managed to hide about 4,500 drawings in a suitcase prior to being deported.

If you have the time, a visit to the Museum of Decorative Arts is worthwhile. Founded in 1885, this newly renovated museum is housed in a stunning neoclassical building directly opposite the Rudolfinum, the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. Currently on (through May 19 2019), is an exhibit on Czech fashion designer Hana Podolska. Also, through September 15th, there is an exhibit on the Czech emigres Zika and Lida Ascher. The two revolutionised textile design and collaborated with artists such as Matisse and Henry Moore, creating scarves that were works of art. Unfortunately, many of the permanent collections were not available for viewing. For dinner that night, we ate at Lokal Dlouhaaa in the Old Town neighbourhood where, for the first time in our trip, we seemed to be the only tourists in the (very large) room. Casual and raucous, it attracts a young crowd. We ate goulash and dumplings (once again) and the kids had hot dogs. The food was authentic and reasonable – our bill totaled only 850 koruna (less than $40 including beer and tip). When we left there was a huge line outside so be sure to book ahead or be prepared to wait.

For our final day in Prague, we visited Prague Castle, and the majestic St. Vitus cathedral. We marvelled at the stained-glass windows and the mosaic depicting Resurrection and Judgment day. Another attraction was Golden Lane, a 16th century street with tiny shops whose doors seemed more suited to diminutive Hobbits than tourists. Most of the shops are run-of- the-mill, however, one highlight was the upper passageway displaying an extensive collection of armor and weaponry – from pikes and maces to catapults and cannons (some of it replica) as well as a small room of medieval torture instruments. Don’t miss the stunning views of the city through one of the rotating archer slits.

Afterwards head down the hill towards the Charles Bridge, where you’ll find atmospheric CukrKavalimonada on the corner of Lazenska street. This café serves delicious sandwiches, salads, breakfast dishes and homemade desserts. From there, it is a short walk to Kampa - a small island in the middle of the Vitava river (think of it as a Czech version of Ile de la Cite in Paris). We walked past the Lennon Wall (dedicated to John Lennon). While some of the original wall art has been painted over, the wall is still covered in colourful graffiti and slogans, and is a hangout for local teenagers.

Once back at the hotel, I took a sauna for my walked-out legs. Any relaxation I achieved evaporated immediately when I was stunned to find three naked men in the dressing room! Apparently, I had somehow entered the men’s sauna/dressing room instead of the women’s. I hid my face behind my towel, apologising in English as I tried to find the exit. From the tone of their comments, I am glad I didn’t understand Czech. Once outside, I discovered that I had failed to spy a small “male” symbol on the door. My mortification disappeared as I anticipated the amusement of my children when I told them the story. They didn’t disappoint.